El 16 de julio - Viva La Paz!
We went to El Prado for the 16 de julio festivities. We started at Plaza Estudiantil, and then we ate and drank our way down to Plaza San Francisco. I have never in my life seen so many people gathered in one place. Red and green lights are strung all the way down El Prado, and La Paz flags are draped over every restaurant, hostel, and kiosk.
We step out of the minibus, and I am hit by the smells of sweet, sweet street food. El Prado is lined with anticucho stands and tables serving singani drinks. People have little tables set up to serve the singani drinks with a circle of chairs around the table. These tables are set up on either side of the street all the way down the avenue. We stop at every third or fourth table to try the singani drinks and talk with paceñas.
I went about my night like I always do: trying new things, taking in everything, and greeting everyone I make eye contact with. I have been very intentional about immersing myself; I want the full paceña experience. I've chewed coca leaves, tried a good deal of street food, taken the teleferico, sat 3 deep in the front of a trufi, drank singani, made small talk on the minibuses, and haggled in the streets. I do not just want the tourist experience -- I want the real experience. A part of that means dodging people peeing in the street during 16 de julio celebrations, and that is okay.
Despite my best efforts to live the paceña way, I have never felt like such an oddball. People literally poked the people beside them and pointed at us. I have become accustomed to the occasional staring when I step on a minibus or walk down the street, but I have never had people actually point at me. I recognize that I am in the minority in La Paz by being pale and blonde, and I recognize that I am still a foreigner even though I try to separate myself from the mochileros.
I understand people's curiosity. When I hear a foreign accent in the US, I want to know their story and welcome them to the states. I do not poke my friend then point at the foreigner. Usually I like to introduce myself, ask where they are from, ask what brings them here, and welcome them to my town and country. Meeting people from other walks of life and parts of the world is really enjoyable for me. Admittedly, I became pretty sour from the scrutiny and stares, but I did try to bridge the gap several times by saying buenas noches or viva La Paz! I want to show them that we are not that different, and I am trying to enjoy their city as fully as possible.
After these few short weeks in Bolivia, I have gained a lot of empathy: empathy for the wanderers of the world who just want to learn about other cultures and find themselves along the way. I have much more empathy for the people in my country whose first language is not english - it is hard to pick up another language and tiring to put forth the everyday just to accomplish simple tasks. I have empathy for those who experience discrimination every day of their lives wherever they are. I know I will return to a large population of blonde, white girls when I return to Ole Miss, but some people never escape prejudice. I have never faced genuine hardship or truly felt unsafe because of my skin color, hair color, gender, or sexual orientation, but through this short, diluted taste of that experience, I have more empathy. I am thankful for that.
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